Lisbon's food scene is unpretentious and extraordinary. The pastel de nata (custard tart) is the city's most famous export — eat them warm, slightly caramelized, at the original Antiga Confeitaria de Belém with cinnamon and powdered sugar. The Time Out Market in Cais do Sodré assembles the best of Lisbon's restaurants under one roof — an excellent introduction.
Bacalhau (salt cod) appears in hundreds of preparations — bacalhau à brás (with potato sticks and egg) is the most approachable. Petiscos (Portuguese tapas) at a taberna in Mouraria or Intendente: croquetes, amêijoas (clams), sardinhas on toast in sardine season (June–August). Ginjinha (cherry liqueur) drunk from a chocolate cup outside A Ginjinha on Praça São Domingos is a €1.40 Lisbon ritual.